The “Butterfly Cut” Is the Throwback Hairstyle Everyone’s Talking About

If you're doing your daily social media scroll and come across a creator with ridiculously bouncy layers, chances are high that they have a butterfly cut. “More and more clients are asking for a butterfly haircut,” says Drea Dettmers, a hairstylist at Tallulah East Collective in Salt Lake City, who adds that many are learning about the style from TikTok.

Like most “trends” circulating on the internet, though, the style isn't new. Hairstylist Sunnie Brook created the cut 15 years ago when she had an influx of clients who wanted to switch up their hairstyle without chopping off all their length. “The name 'butterfly' embodies transformation,” says Brook.

If you look back to ’90s glam—with Rachel from Friends as the prime example—you’ll see the face-framing, voluminous layers that make the butterfly cut what it is, says Teryn Tucker, a hairstylist at Alchemy Salon in Orlando. The cut takes inspiration from shaggy '70s and ’90s haircuts, but celebrities like Sydney Sweeney and Kaia Gerber have brought the style back into the spotlight.

Below, experts share everything you need to know about the butterfly cut, and why it might be time to book your next appointment at the salon.

A butterfly cut (also known as an octopus haircut) is a style that falls between a shag and long layers. What makes this look different from all other layered cuts is that the butterfly has two distinct sections: long layers that fall below the shoulders for length, and short layers that hit two to three inches below the chin to frame the face and add volume. Says Brook, “It allows for an illusion of short hair while maintaining length, offering a safe space for change.”

The style is ideal for people who want to create the illusion of fuller, healthier hair without sacrificing length. Hairstylist Ashley Lynn, in Charlotte, North Carolina, notes that the butterfly cut also "creates volume and shape, while removing damage from every level."

You don’t need thick hair to wear a butterfly cut, but "there are so many layers, you need full density to get the full effect," explains Dettmers. If you have thin hair, less layers are typically added. That said, a spritz of texturizing spray can always help add more volume. Allure editors suggest the Living Proof Full Dry Volume & Texture Spray or Kristin Ess Dry Finish Working Texture Spray.

And if you're growing out your curtain bangs or a hime haircut, the butterfly cut is a "natural next step," says Tucker. With less styling needed, the butterfly can give you and your hair a break.

The layers add movement that makes for low-maintenance styling. After washing and conditioning your hair, reach for a blow-drying brush, which will add bouncy volume to your layered look. Allure editors recommend the Revlon Salon One-Step Hair Dryer and Volumizer. Be sure to use a heat protectant to prevent damage (we love the ColorWow Dream Coat Supernatural Spray Anti-Frizz Treatment). You can achieve the same effect with a round brush and blow-dryer.

If you don't want to use a hot tool, Brook recommends partially air-drying the hair. Then, she continues, “when it’s about 75% dry, I like to divide the hair in two sections, and take a small to medium size round brush, using a wrapping and twisting motion to create movement in the hair.” Finish off your style by locking in the volume with hairspray—Brook likes the Biolage Complete Control Hairspray (she's an ambassador for the brand). We also like the Oribe Superfine Hairspray for this.

Prefer to style your hair up? Pamela Anderson's messy bun is a good point of reference. Hours Full-Time Plumping Mousse adds volume, Kérastase Elixir Ultime Original Hair Oil helps smooth down flyaways, and Nexxus XXL Volume Medium Hold Spray will lock it all in. All three are Allure Best of Beauty-winning favorites.

The same goes for a ponytail: Pull back the long layers and let the shorter layers fall to frame the face. This makes it easy to achieve a "voluminous, cascading ponytail with little-to-no styling needed," says Dettmers.

Keep your length and maximize volume. Here are a few of our favorite ways to wear the versatile cut:

Sydney Sweeney topped her extra-long layers with a large black bow.

This fluffy butterfly cut—with wispy face-framing layers—is a great example of how this look can be styled on medium-length hair.

Loose waves like Hailee Steinfeld's show off her layers.

This flowy butterfly cut makes highlights pop, especially when styled in bouncy waves.

This blend of blonde and brown balayage adds extra dimension to the butterfly cut. Use a blowout brush to curl the ends outward.

Kelly Rowland's look is proof the butterfly cut wears just as well with a side part.

These blue streaks add even more edge to the style.

Is it a shag? Is it a wolf cut? It may not look like a butterfly at first glance, but the distinct short layers at the top and longer layers toward the bottom qualify this look as a butterfly cut.

Curling the front pieces of your hair away from the face gives this cut a nostalgic ’90s vibe.

Additional reporting by Annie Blay.

Read more about hair trends:

• Entering Your Red Hair Era? Try One of These Trending Shades
• 2025's Top Haircut Trends Are a Master Class in Timeless Sophistication
• The Top 2025 Hair Color Trends Are Straight Out of Film Noir
• Spring’s Biggest Hair Trends Offer Maximum Impact With Minimal Upkeep

Now, watch Rachel Zegler's 10-minute beauty routine.

Follow Allure on Instagram and TikTok, or subscribe to our newsletter to stay up to date on all things beauty.